Cutting new cloth: African designers stitch fresh stories into Paris fashion
Posted on July 01 2025
When Valérie Ka started modelling at 14 in Côte d’Ivoire, she thought she was on top of the world. But she wanted to go further, so she created Africa Fashion Up – a way to help African designers reach the global stage.
Issued on:
As a child, Ka dreamed of being an interior designer, an architect or a flight attendant. But the world of fashion stole her heart.
She took her first steps on the catwalk at the age of 14, modelling designs by the likes of Niger’s Alphadi – nicknamed the “magician of the desert” and founder of FIMA, the International Festival of African Fashion.
“He was a family friend and treated me like a daughter,” she tells RFI’s Maria Afonso. She became his brand’s muse and travelled Africa and the world; an experience that sowed creative seeds.
Ka later studied business and marketing, which led her to combine creativity with entrepreneurship.
During the Covid crisis in 2020, Ka was stuck in Paris – one of the world’s fashion capitals. She grew frustrated that African fashion lacked its own Fashion Week, even though she could see the continent was oozing talent.
She felt that African designers and entrepreneurs needed a place to meet experienced business leaders who could spot opportunities.
That’s how Share Africa was born – a platform to strengthen relations between France and Africa and support creation and innovation in all forms.
Moving on up
One of the first off-shoots of this wide-reaching platform is Africa Fashion Up – a name Ka chose because she felt it would highlight “the best of the best” in Africa fashion moving forward and upwards.
The project has several parts, including a fashion show in Paris. This year’s show took place on 26 June at Bridge (Alexandre III, Paris) to present established designers alongside winners of the young designer contest. It lined up with Paris Fashion Week.
Ka is proud that in its fifth year, the young talent award drew more than 300 candidates. Five were chosen to travel to Paris for a special programme.
Coming from South Africa, Nigeria, Cameroon and Ethiopia, they took part in three mentoring workshops. They got style advice from Balenciaga designers, business tips from HECbusiness school and sales guidance from Galeries Lafayette experts.
“Even if African designers are well known in their own countries, they are not well known internationally,” Ka said.
Nigerian designer Femi Ajose brings original Lagos looks to Paris
“Sometimes their designs are worn by celebrities like the singer Beyoncé or the Princess of Monaco, but the public doesn’t know who is behind them.”
Ka wants to change that. Her bigger goal is to build an African version of LVMH – the luxury group run by Bernard Arnault – covering fashion, accessories and other luxury goods.
She knows how important it is to work on the communication and image of a brand in a highly competitive environment. She points to one label – Cute Saint – that had two designs copied by Chinese brand Shein, right down to the fabrics.
Business mindset
Ka said unlike Nigeria and South Africa, which have strong business models, French-speaking African countries are behind. She links this to both lack of investment and mindset.
Some French-speaking countries see fashion shows as frivolous entertainment, she said, while English-speaking countries understand they are vital to help designers get noticed.
This is why working with big French partners is a big part of Ka’s plan. With their skills and contacts, she hopes to push young African designers to the next level.
This year, for the first time, Ka has negotiated for three established designers, as well as the young talents, to have a pop-up store on the third floor of Galeries Lafayette in Paris, next to cult brands such as Chanel and Dior.
Getting African designers into these spots is tough due to strict rules, high standards and the money needed. But Ka said money is not the real problem. Many African designers sell well at home and have turnover above one million dollars.
While the going might be slow at times, Ka has seen the African market jump ahead in leaps and bounds. She said even Chinese firms now come to her for advice on the rising industry.
For Ka, it’s about breaking down barriers and bringing investors and business leaders to the same table so that everyone can share their know-how.
With determination and hard work, Ka is convinced that African fashion can and will measure up to Western fashion.
https://www.rfi.fr/en/culture/20250629-african-designers-stitch-fresh-stories-into-paris-fashion-valérie-ka?utm_slink=rfi.my%2FBnha
